Since the 17^th century, palate and taste have been key technology of the self used by the new global metropolitan bourgeoisie. The practice of taste, including its communication and staging in a manner divorced from political, economic and bodily needs, holds out the promise of a free and egalitarian society. This history of mature taste characterizes a transformation in the realms of orality and appetite.

Stephan Zandt, Humboldt-Universität zu Berlin, Berlin.